Then and Now Hong Kong - The long history of Central Market
After 18 years of being empty it is finally thriving once again
Me Jamie, your host, I am English and I have lived in Hong Kong for 53 years - I know the place.
I have personally completed 2,340+ Private Tours and Experiences (over 6,500+ guests) since April 2011 and I am considered one of the finest Private Tour Guides in Asia.
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Then and Now Hong Kong - The long history of Central Market
After 18 years of being empty it is finally thriving once again
click on the image to enlarge
The Iconic Central Market in Hong Kong - 1939
This 1939 image was taken on Des Voeux Road in Central, Hong Kong showing the main entrance, the road on the left is Queen Victoria Street
Since 1972 I had been a regular visitor to Central Market, it was one of Hong Kong’ s largest wet markets, in other words a place to purchase meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, fruit and such, we have hundreds of them in Hong Kong but none had the history or the size of Central Market, it was massive! and I should point out, not for the squeamish, it was also pretty pungent, it had probably the stinkiest public toilets in Hong Kong, yes, enough to make you gag but it had character in spades and it was such a cultural experience in short doses.
There are very few people in Hong Kong that arer actually aware of the long history of Central Market and it certainly earned its place in Hong Kong history books
When I saw the image above I cringed some, it reminded me that when it opened in its current form in 1939 it did not have air conditioning and I can only imagine the smell and basically it is in the business district, I know we all feel nostalgic about the past but I could not have survived living in Hong Kong with no air conditioning particularly during the hot and humid summer months and back in the day, basic sanitary conditions where rudimentary to say the least, but then again if you had money then you simply lived at the Peak and have the servants make the daily trek to the smelly and foul wet markets.
It did not come as a surprise when the Government announced it was going to close Central Market in 2003, the smell if you got within 100 yards of it was appalling, you can see from the image below what the building looked like in 2003, even though I had taken this image in 2017. basically the market was closed for 18 years but essentially the top few floors remained open the entire time because it was access from the waterfront to the Mid Levels Escalator, every day many thousands of people had to use the building to access the iconic Mid Levels escalator without having to deal with the traffic on the streets.
The Government even rented out shop spaces, a real money spinner given the amount of foot traffic, they had convenience stores, gift shops and a rather odd tailors shop that specialised in kilts and stuff for Scottish Gentlemen, they always had people in the shop.
To be fair the walkway was painted in bright colours and was cool and clean and completely at odds with the surroundings
So in a nutshell this absolutely essential small passage way was the reason the site was in development hell for 18 years, the building was a protected building in many respects (but that has never stopped the Government from knocking down buildings) and they had to keep the walkway open
Why it took 18 years is anyone’s guess, it actually got ludicrous as the Government could not make up its mind what to do with it and a few proposals where rejected and meanwhile the building was crumbling, in the end a design was approved in 2017 and 4 years later if re opened looking very much like the building below except it got new windows and a lick of paint! they could have approved this back in 2003 and it would have reopened in 2007 rather than 2021!
To be fair, I really think they have done a terrific job with Central Market, the walkway is still there to the Mid Levels Escalator but instead of shops it has a street market feel and it is pretty hip and there is a real buzz about it, I go through it frequently and the place is jammed and I am so happy for the stall holders
This building was also a place for one of my own amusing episodes, they where filming a scene from the Batman Movie The Dark Night just outside where you exit the walkway to get onto the Mid Levels Escalator, I was using the walkway and was lost in thought when I suddenly noticed that the crowds had thinned and in front of me was Christian Bale and Morgan Freeman looking a little annoyed and then I heard someone say “get that fat b&^%$#d off my set” all I could say to the iconic actors was “sorry chaps”
It was a great movie and I always end up pointing out buildings used in the film to my guests.
click on the image to enlarge
The Iconic Central Market in Hong Kong - 2017
History of Central Market, Hong Kong
Early History and Development
Central Market, located in Central, Hong Kong, at the intersection of Queen’s Road Central, Des Voeux Road Central, Jubilee Street, and Queen Victoria Street, is one of the city’s oldest wet markets and a significant architectural landmark. Its history traces back to the early days of Hong Kong as a British colony.
1842: The precursor to Central Market, known as Canton Bazaar or Middle Bazaar, was established on Queen’s Road Central between Cochrane Street and Graham Street. This initial market was a simple structure built with bamboo and wood to serve the growing population’s immediate needs.
1843: Due to a series of fires, the Chinese population was relocated to Tai Ping Shan, and the market site was repurposed for European residential houses.
1858: As Hong Kong’s trade and population grew, a more permanent market was constructed using granite and brick, reflecting Central’s emergence as a commercial hub.
1895: The market expanded into a two-story Victorian-style building with a central tower, accommodating the increasing variety of goods and produce. This structure showcased the architectural trends of the late 19th century.
1930s: By the 1930s, the Victorian-era market was deemed inadequate and unsanitary. It was demolished in 1937 to make way for a modern structure.
Construction and Bauhaus Style (1938–1939)
1938–1939: The current Central Market building was constructed between 1938 and 1939, costing HK$900,000. Completed on May 1, 1939, it was designed in the Bauhaus and Streamline Moderne styles, characterized by slim horizontal lines, functional design, and a reinforced concrete structure with high ceilings. This made it one of only two Bauhaus-style market buildings in Hong Kong, alongside Wan Chai Market*. The four-story building (including the roof) housed over 200 market stalls, making it the largest meat market in Southeast Asia at the time.
*The Bauhaus Wanchai Market was also redeveloped but kept its original structure with one exception, they build a gigantic apartment block on top of it!
Purpose: The market served as a wet market, offering fresh produce, seafood, poultry, and other goods, including affordable proteins like horse meat in the 1940s. It was a vital commercial and social hub for Hongkongers across generations.
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The Iconic Central Market in Hong Kong - 2021
The overhaul process was a great success, the building looks great and is thriving!
Notable Historical Events
Early 1900s: The market’s entrance was a popular venue for outdoor cinema, adding to its cultural significance
1941–1945: During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong, the market’s Chinese name was changed from (Chung Wan Kai Shi) to (Chung Yeung Shi Cheung). The original name was restored in 1993., presumably it still functioned as a wet market
1967: The market’s significance was highlighted by a visit from Hong Kong Governor David Trench, underscoring its role as a major regional market. Another governor, Alexander Grantham, also visited, reflecting its importance.
1994: The western part of the second floor was converted into the Central Escalator Link Alley Shopping Arcade, serving as a pedestrian link between the Central Elevated Walkway and the Central–Mid-Levels escalator system. This arcade included shops like tailors and cleansers and was a gathering place for Filipino domestic workers on Sundays.
Connection to the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator
The Central Market has a significant link to the Central–Mid-Levels escalator, the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator system, opened in 1993. This system, spanning over 800 meters and climbing 135 meters in elevation, connects Central to the Mid-Levels, with Central Market serving as a key junction.
The Central Escalator Link Alley Shopping Arcade within the market facilitates pedestrian access to the escalator system, enhancing connectivity between Queen’s Road Central, Cochrane Street, and Shelley Street. This link has made Central Market a vital node in Hong Kong’s urban fabric, featured in films like Chungking Express (1994), Chinese Box (1997), and The Dark Knight (2008), which used the escalator and market as iconic filming locations.
Closure and Vacancy (2003–2021)
Closure in March 2003: Central Market ceased operations due to the building’s deterioration and changing consumer habits, with parts of the market already converted into linkages and shopping booths by the 1990s. The rise of supermarkets and modern retail reduced the demand for traditional wet markets, leading to its closure.
Vacancy for Over a Decade: After closing, the market remained vacant for over 10 years due to debates over its future. Initial plans for demolition to make way for high-rise development sparked public outcry and a heritage conservation movement. The Urban Renewal Authority (URA) faced challenges balancing preservation with urban renewal, leading to prolonged discussions and planning. The building’s Grade III historic status, granted in 1990 by the Antiquities Advisory Board, further complicated redevelopment, as conservationists advocated for adaptive reuse rather than demolition.
Revitalization Project (2009–2021)
2009: The URA announced that Central Market would be revitalized for conservation and adaptive reuse, as outlined in the 2009 policy address. The project aimed to preserve the building’s historical essence while transforming it into a modern community space.
Proposal and Leadership: The revitalization was led by the URA in partnership with Chinachem Group’s subsidiary, Noble Vantage Limited, with Donald Choi Wun-hing as the executive director and CEO. The project, themed “Playground for All,” was designed to create a vibrant, accessible space for retail, dining, and cultural activities. Lead architect Vincent Ng of AGC Design Limited, along with designers Benjamin Lam and Kin Cheong Chan of ShadowDesign, focused on preserving the Bauhaus features while incorporating modern elements like bi-folding doors, a central piazza, and a 2,500-square-foot multi-functional event space.
Design Features: The revamp preserved original architectural elements, such as 13 historic market stalls (two converted into interactive exhibits), the grand staircases with Shanghai plaster, and the building’s horizontal lines. New additions included a 10,800-square-foot open plaza, lush greenery, and a 24-hour pedestrian walkway connecting to the Mid-Levels escalator. The project cost over HK$500 million, with an estimated total of HK$600 million.
Challenges and Criticism: Early proposals, like a “floating oasis” rooftop plan, were scrapped in 2015 due to high costs. Critics, including architect Darren Maryon, argued that initial designs risked diluting the building’s heritage with overly modern interventions. The final design addressed these concerns by emphasizing heritage preservation and community use.
Central Market Revitalisation Timeline:
2003: Closed in March 2003
2009: Revitalization project announced.
2015: Initial “floating oasis” plan abandoned.
2016: Revised design approved with conditions for public open space and accessibility.
2017–2021: Major construction and preservation works, overseen by the URA and Chinachem Group.
August 23, 2021: Central Market reopened to the public.
…. and Central Market has become a magnet for Tour Companies to take their guests to (20 - 40 in a group), as a Private Tour Guide I only access it to get to the Mid Level Escalator, but group tour companies, well it is a time eater for them,, they let their guests loose for a short while to do some shopping, they really do not delve into the long, long history of the place, which is a shame as it is so interesting.
click on the image to enlarge
The Iconic Central Market in Hong Kong - 2024
Reopening and Current Use
August 2021: Central Market reopened as a “Playground for All,” featuring retail, dining, and cultural spaces. Notable vendors include Mammy Pancake, Caring Tea, and Nina Patisserie, which celebrate Hong Kong’s culinary heritage. The market hosts events like handicraft markets, exhibitions, and performances, with a focus on local culture and sustainability. It operates daily from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM, with free entry, though some events may require fees.
Cultural Significance: The revitalized market retains its Bauhaus heritage while serving as a modern community hub. Its connection to the Mid-Levels escalator continues to make it a vital link in Central’s pedestrian network, attracting locals and tourists.
Stories and Cultural Impact
Film Appearances: The market and its escalator link have been featured in Chungking Express (1994), Chinese Box (1997), and The Dark Knight (2008), cementing its status as a cultural landmark.
Photography by Fan Ho: In the 1950s and 1960s, Chinese photographer Fan Ho captured the market’s staircases and atmosphere, documenting Hong Kong’s mid-20th-century zeitgeist.
Community Hub: The market’s revitalization has made it a space for social interaction, with events like music shows, handicraft markets, and guided tours highlighting its history.
Conclusion
Central Market’s evolution from a bamboo structure in 1842 to a revitalized Bauhaus landmark in 2021 reflects Hong Kong’s growth as a global city. Its closure in 2003 and subsequent vacancy were driven by urban changes and preservation debates, but the URA’s revitalization efforts, led by Chinachem Group, have transformed it into a vibrant community space. Its link to the Central–Mid-Levels escalator enhances its accessibility and cultural significance, making it a cherished part of Hong Kong’s heritage.
My insider tip
Please note that in general if you book a tour on Viator or Tripadvisor you generally have NO control over what guide will lead your Private Tour of Hong Kong and this is the most important component of the tour. I urge you to check the actual company website and book via their website and do not forget to read Tripadvisor reviews as well.
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