Then and Now Hong Kong - The Amazing & Iconic Star Ferry
It has been essentially running since 1880 - Hong Kong Icon
Me Jamie, your host, I am English and I have lived in Hong Kong for 53 years - I know the place.
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Then and Now Hong Kong - The Amazing & Iconic Star Ferry
It has been essentially running since 1880 -Hong Kong Icon
click on the image to enlarge
The Iconic Star Ferry in Hong Kong - 1930
Since 1972 I have been on the Star Ferry in Hong Kong countless thousands of times, it is by far one of my favourite things to do and yes, I always go on the lower deck and not because it is cheaper but because it is open air and you are very close to the water and when there is a breeze blowing it is simply an awesome experience,
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The Iconic Star Ferry in Victoria Harbour Hong Kong - 2017
Back in the day the Ferry used to take 25 minutes, I loved it as did pretty much anyone that travelled on it did, these days it is roughly 8 - 10 minutes (if you are lucky)
I also lament the passing of the iconic Star Ferry Pier in Central on Hong Kong Island in use prior to December 12th 2006, it was totally demolished by early 2007 and it was next to the General Post Office, it had bookshops, snack shops and tourist type shops, even better it was just a 2 minutes walk from Statue Square in the heart of the business district, a walk that can take 15 minutes + today, the new Star Ferry Pier post late December 2006 is a pale replica of the previous one, it has no soul and no class and for a lot of people it is simply to far to walk anywhere particularly in the summer heat and humidity. Oh well. (and yes, the Kowloon Star Ferry Pier is much more interesting than the Central Star Ferry Pier)
Sometimes my brain goes into overdrive and I think about how the Star Ferry could do a little better, I have always got hung up on their website which is so the year 2000 - I find it hard to believe that they cannot drum up a small amount of money and totally revamp and modernise their website and bring it up to 2025 standards and have a proper online shop selling hundreds of Star Ferry Souvenirs, they need to do a daily blog (gosh, so much history and so many stories) and they need to revamp their retail offerings at all their piers, the Star Ferry is an icon to beat all icons in Hong Kong, it is not just a ferry service, they need to monetise their brand pronto and get rid of their awful website.
Just a personal opinion of course!
So to anyone visiting Hong Kong, a ride on the Star Ferry is an essential to do and take the lower deck not the sterile upper deck and take a selfie or 20.
and finally, their harbour tour (or World Star Water Tour) as they call it) is worth taking at night time, see their website for details.
All the modern day images are my photographs by the way. sometimes I get lucky with weather conditions!
Comprehensive History of the iconic Star Ferry in Hong Kong
Origins and Early Years
The Star Ferry, a cornerstone of Hong Kong’s identity, traces its beginnings to the late 19th century. Before its establishment, crossing Victoria Harbour relied on small wooden sampans or rowboats, which were irregular and weather-dependent. In 1880, Dorabjee Naorojee Mithaiwala, a Parsee cook with an interest in steam technology, launched a steam-powered ferry service with his vessel, the Morning Star, to transport goods and workers between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. This marked the start of a formalized cross-harbour service. In 1888, Mithaiwala founded the Kowloon Ferry Company, initially operating from Pedder’s Wharf in Central to Tsim Sha Tsui, with trips taking 40 minutes to an hour. The service used coal-powered steam ferries, halting on Mondays and Fridays for coaling. By 1890, the fleet included four single-deck ferries: Morning Star, Evening Star, Rising Star, and Guiding Star.
In 1898, British-Armenian businessman Sir Catchick Paul Chater, associated with The Hong Kong and Kowloon Wharf and Godown Company, acquired the Kowloon Ferry Company and renamed it the Star Ferry Company, reflecting the celestial names of its vessels. This marked a significant milestone, formalizing the company’s identity. The fleet expanded, and a double-ended design was introduced in 1897, allowing ferries to be piloted from either end, eliminating the need to turn around, which enhanced efficiency for the short harbour crossing.
Early 20th Century Developments
By the early 20th century, the Star Ferry was integral to Hong Kong’s growth, connecting the developing Kowloon Peninsula with Hong Kong Island. In 1912, a controversy arose when the company, alongside Hong Kong’s tramways, insisted on accepting only Hong Kong currency, rejecting Canton coinage despite both being legal tender. This decision sparked public outcry following a devaluation of Canton currency.
In 1924, the Yaumati Ferry Company operated a competing route to Kowloon, creating a duopoly. A significant technological advancement came in 1933 with the introduction of the Electric Star, the first diesel-electric passenger ferry of its kind, marking a shift from steam to more efficient diesel-electric propulsion. By 1941, the Star Ferry had six vessels in its fleet.
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The Iconic Star Ferry in Victoria Harbour Hong Kong - 2017
World War II (1941–1945)
During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong (1941–1945), the Star Ferry faced significant disruption. The Japanese military commandeered the ferries for their own purposes, while allowing the competing Yaumati Ferry to continue operations. Notably, the Golden Star and Meridian Star were used to transport prisoners of war from Sham Shui Po to Kai Tak Airport. In 1943, tragedy struck when the Golden Star was bombed and sunk in the Canton River by American forces, and the Electric Star was sunk in Victoria Harbour. After the war, the company recovered and rebuilt its fleet, resuming full services to support Hong Kong’s post-war reconstruction.
Post-War Growth and the 1966 Riots
The Star Ferry became a vital part of Hong Kong’s infrastructure as the city transformed into a global hub. The Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier, completed in 1957, featured twin piers to handle increased traffic and became a landmark itself. The ferries’ green-and-white color scheme and double-deck design, introduced in the 1950s, solidified their iconic status.
In 1966, a proposed fare increase of 5 cents (25%) triggered significant unrest. A 27-year-old student, Sze To Wah, staged a hunger strike at the Edinburgh Place Ferry Pier in Central to protest the hike. His arrest sparked the 1966 Hong Kong riots, which began as peaceful protests but escalated into violent clashes in Kowloon, resulting in one death, numerous injuries, and a citywide curfew enforced by riot police and armed troops. The riots highlighted deep-seated social and economic grievances and marked a pivotal moment in Hong Kong’s political history, demonstrating the ferry’s role as a symbol of public sentiment.
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The Iconic Star Ferry in Victoria Harbour Hong Kong - 2018
Modernization and Challenges
The opening of the Cross-Harbour Tunnel in 1972 and the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) in 1979 reduced the Star Ferry’s role as a primary transport mode, prompting a pivot toward tourism. The ferries began marketing their scenic rides, offering affordable views of Hong Kong’s skyline, which National Geographic Traveler later recognized as one of the “50 places of a lifetime.”
In 2006, the demolition of the Edinburgh Place Ferry Pier and its clock tower for land reclamation sparked significant controversy. Conservationists and locals protested the loss of this cultural landmark, but the pier was replaced by Central Pier No. 7, designed to evoke the original’s aesthetic. The move underscored tensions between modernization and heritage preservation.
Financial Struggles and Recent Developments
The Star Ferry, owned by The Wharf (Holdings) since its acquisition by Sir Catchick Paul Chater, faced severe financial challenges due to the 2019 pro-democracy protests and the COVID-19 pandemic. From 2019 to 2022, the company reported losses of approximately HK$70 million (US$9 million), as tourism plummeted and commuter numbers dwindled due to Hong Kong’s strict “zero-COVID” policies. By 2022, the company struggled to pay wages, raising concerns about its survival.
To bolster its finances, the Star Ferry partnered with The Peninsula Hotel in 2022 to offer premium experiences, such as afternoon teas and sunset cruises with canapés and cocktails on the Golden Star, which was refurbished for charters accommodating up to 300 people. Additionally, a temporary lift on the ban on pets aboard ferries was introduced to attract dog owners, highlighting efforts to diversify revenue streams.
In 2023, the Star Ferry launched a sightseeing service between Tsim Sha Tsui and Hong Kong Disneyland Resort Pier, a 45-minute journey on the luxury ferry World Star with a round-trip fare of HK$180, offering views of the Tsing Ma Bridge. This route, with two daily departures, targets tourists seeking unique experiences.
Current Fleet and Tourist Services
As of 2025, the Star Ferry operates a fleet of 8 ferries, all named after celestial bodies:
Celestial Star (1956, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Meridian Star (1958, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Solar Star (1958, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Northern Star (1959, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Day Star (1964, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Shining Star (1964, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Morning Star (1965, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
Silver Star (1965, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard)
*Night Star (1956, Hong Kong & Whampoa Shipyard) (I believe this the new Classic Ferry Tour Boat)
*Golden Star (primarily used for charters) (1989 by Wang Tak Engineering & Shipbuilding Ltd)
*World Star (primarily used for their Water Tour) (1989 by Wang Tak Engineering & Shipbuilding Ltd)
* I have seen some reports that the Star Ferry Fleet is 10 - 12 ferries (excluding the charter boats and tour boats), this is possible as they may have one or two spare ferries which come into play if a ferry needs work done if it breaks down, I have seen Star Ferries parked near where I live which is a long way from town!
* I understand that the Twinkling Star and possible the Night Star where decommissioned 12 or 13 years ago when the Central to Hung Hom route and Wanchai to Hung Hom route were cancelled
*I should also point out that the Star Ferry Hong Kong website states that they have 8 ferries excluding the charter and tour ferries which is at odds with other multiple sources saying they have 9 ferries not 8 and the 8 standard ferries are named above.. it is very confusing but will assume that the above information is now correct, I have added the Night Star to the list of non standard ferries until I confirm otherwise so 8 active ferries and 3 charter | tour ferries
The company operates two primary routes:
Central to Tsim Sha Tsui and Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui. Fares remain affordable, ranging from HK$4–$6.50 depending on the day and deck (upper or lower).
The Star Ferry also offers a dedicated Harbour Tour, a one-hour sightseeing trip starting at Tsim Sha Tsui, stopping at Central and Wan Chai, and returning to Tsim Sha Tsui. This tour, launched in 2003, allows visitors to enjoy panoramic views of Victoria Harbour and the skyline, particularly popular during the nightly A Symphony of Lights show. The Golden Star is available for private charters, equipped with amenities like tables, air-conditioned areas, and a public address system.
The partnership with The Peninsula Hotel provides exclusive tourist experiences, such as curated cruises with dining options, enhancing the ferry’s appeal to high-end visitors. These services are available on select vessels, including the Golden Star.
Electric-Powered Ferries
As of 2025, the Star Ferry’s fleet remains diesel-electric, with no full transition to fully electric-powered ferries. The Electric Star (1933) was a pioneering diesel-electric vessel, combining diesel engines with electric propulsion for efficiency. While there have been global pushes for greener maritime transport, no specific plans for fully electric Star Ferries have been announced. The company’s focus has been on maintaining its existing fleet due to financial constraints, but future sustainability initiatives could involve electric propulsion, especially with government support for eco-friendly transport in Hong Kong.
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The Iconic Star Ferry in Victoria Harbour Hong Kong- 2017
Iconic Status
The Star Ferry is a cultural icon, often compared to landmarks like the Eiffel Tower or Sydney Harbour Bridge. Its green-and-white double-deck ferries, largely unchanged in design for decades, offer stunning views of Hong Kong’s skyline for less than US$0.50 per ride, making it a beloved experience for locals and tourists. Its historical significance, from its role in Hong Kong’s growth to its survival through wars and protests, has cemented its place in the city’s collective memory. National Geographic’s recognition and its frequent appearances in media further enhance its global fame.
Notable Landmarks and Dates
1880: Dorabjee Naorojee Mithaiwala launches the Morning Star ferry service.
1888: Kowloon Ferry Company founded.
1898: Renamed Star Ferry Company under Sir Catchick Paul Chater.
1933: Electric Star, the first diesel-electric ferry, introduced.
1941–1945: Japanese occupation; Golden Star and Electric Star sunk.
1957: Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier completed.
1966: Star Ferry Riots due to fare increase.
1972: Cross-Harbour Tunnel opens, shifting focus to tourism.
1998: Centenary celebration.
2006: Edinburgh Place Ferry Pier demolished; relocated to Central Pier No. 7.
2023: Tsim Sha Tsui to Hong Kong Disneyland route launched.
2025: Partnership with The Peninsula Hotel for premium cruises.
Odd and Notable Stories
Currency Controversy (1912): The Star Ferry’s refusal to accept Canton coinage caused public backlash, highlighting early tensions over currency standardization in Hong Kong.
Japanese Occupation Misuse: The use of Star Ferries to transport prisoners of war during World War II, followed by the sinking of two vessels, remains a somber chapter in its history.
1966 Riots: The hunger strike by Sze To Wah over a fare increase led to riots, a rare instance of a transport service sparking citywide unrest, reflecting the ferry’s deep societal impact.
Traditional Mooring: The Star Ferry continues the century-old practice of mooring by tossing ropes to pier workers who catch them with billhooks, a nod to its historical roots.
Annual Passenger Numbers for the Star Ferry 1972 vs 2024
1972 Estimate:
In 1972, the Star Ferry was the primary means of public transportation across Victoria Harbour, as the Cross-Harbour Tunnel had just opened that year. The dual-level piers completed in 1957 were designed to accommodate up to 55 million passenger trips annually. While exact figures for 1972 are not available, the Star Ferry's role as the main transport link suggests passenger numbers were likely close to or at this capacity, around 150,000 passengers per day (55 million ÷ 365).
2024 Estimate:
In 2024, the Star Ferry carried approximately 39 million passengers annually across all ferry services in Hong Kong, with the Star Ferry operating two franchised routes (Central to Tsim Sha Tsui and Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui). This translates to an average of about 106,849 passengers per day (39 million ÷ 365). However, specific Star Ferry data from 2019 indicates an average of 50,600 daily passengers (18.47 million annually), and earlier reports from 2022 suggest a drop to 26,240 daily passengers due to reduced tourism and competition from tunnels and the MTR. Given the 2024 total ferry passenger figure, the Star Ferry's daily ridership likely falls between 26,000 and 50,000, with an estimated annual figure of 9.5 to 18.3 million passengers.
Comparison:
1972: Approximately 55 million passengers annually (~150,000 daily), reflecting its role as the primary cross-harbour transport.
2024: Estimated 9.5 to 18.3 million passengers annually (~26,000 to 50,000 daily), a significant decline due to alternative transport options like the MTR and tunnels, with tourism now accounting for about half of its traffic.
The sharp drop in passenger numbers from 1972 to 2024 highlights the impact of modern infrastructure and changing travel patterns, with the Star Ferry transitioning from a primary transport mode to a cultural and tourist attraction
Insider nugget of information
Most people have no clue that the Star Ferry Company is owned by Wharf Holdings that also owns the iconic and brilliant Ocean Terminal Shopping Mall and Cruise Ship Terminal just 200 yards away from the Star Ferry Entrance, there are some flag poles very close to the Star Ferry Lower Deck Entrance and one of the Flags is the Wharf Holdings flag
… and because Wharf Holdings is the owner I always laugh when I read speculation that the Star Ferry is in financial trouble, Wharf Holdings is a very, very large and successful property company (amongst other things) and have been running the Star Ferry for over a hundred years, it is part of their heritage and any losses the Star Ferry incurs are a drop in the bucket when compared to Wharf Holdings overall revenue.
Wharf (Holdings) Limited reported revenue of HK$12.115 billion for the year 2024. or well over US$1.55 Billion, I cannot find any mention specifically of the revenue of the Star Ferry Company in their 2024 annual report, it must be in the “Others Listing) and is so small it does not merit a mention!
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The Iconic Star Ferry in Victoria Harbour Hong Kong - 2025
Class segregation
Yes, it is true that the Star Ferry in Hong Kong historically had a form of class-based segregation on its ferries, with the upper deck designated as first-class seating and the lower deck as third-class seating. While the segregation was primarily based on ticket class and fare, it often had racial implications due to the socio-economic context of colonial Hong Kong, where wealthier passengers (frequently British or other Westerners) were more likely to afford first-class tickets, and Chinese passengers, who often had less economic power, were more likely to use the lower deck.
Details of the Segregation:
Structure and Conditions: The upper deck was considered first-class seating, with more comfortable seats and a dress code (e.g., men were required to wear a collar and tie). The lower deck, designated as third-class, had backless benches or standing room and was more exposed to the elements, sometimes resulting in passengers getting splashed during rough seas.
Racial Implications: While not explicitly a racial policy, the economic disparity in colonial Hong Kong meant that Chinese passengers were more likely to use the lower deck due to the lower cost of tickets. This created a de facto segregation where the upper deck was predominantly used by wealthier, often non-Chinese passengers, while the lower deck was more commonly used by Chinese locals.
Timeline:
Start: The class-based system, including the distinction between upper and lower decks, was formalized after 1898 when Sir Catchick Paul Chater acquired the Kowloon Ferry Company and renamed it the Star Ferry Company. New ferries were commissioned with this two-tier design, establishing the first-class (upper deck) and third-class (lower deck) system. However, the exact date this system was implemented is not precisely documented in available sources, but it likely began in the early 20th century as the company expanded and introduced double-decker ferries.
End: There is no definitive date in the provided sources for when the class-based segregation (or the strict distinction between first-class and third-class decks) was fully abolished. However, the practice likely diminished over time as Hong Kong’s social and economic landscape changed, particularly after World War II and the end of the Japanese occupation (1945). By the 1950s and 1960s, the Star Ferry became more of a shared public transport system, and the distinction between decks became less about class or race and more about fare differences and passenger preference (e.g., locals preferring the lower deck for its lower cost and open-air experience). The modern Star Ferry system still has different fares for the upper and lower decks, but these are no longer tied to a formal class system or dress code, and the service is accessible to all passengers regardless of background.
Key Points:
The segregation was primarily class-based but had racial undertones due to colonial economic disparities.
The upper deck remains more expensive today (e.g., HK$5 vs. HK$4 for the lower deck on weekdays as of 2021), but it is now a matter of choice rather than enforced segregation.
The lack of explicit documentation on the end date suggests the practice faded gradually with societal changes rather than being terminated by a specific policy or event.
The length of the Ferry Ride historically versus today
The Star Ferry in Hong Kong, a historic and iconic mode of transportation across Victoria Harbour, has seen changes in the duration of its ride due to land reclamation and other factors over the decades. Below is the information regarding the length of the ferry ride in the 1970s and in 2025, based on available data.
Length of the Star Ferry Ride in the 1970s
In the 1970s, the Star Ferry crossed Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island (Central) and Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui). At that time, the harbour was wider due to less extensive land reclamation compared to today. Historical accounts suggest that the ferry ride took longer than it does now because the distance across the harbour was greater. According to available information, the crossing in the 1970s could take up to 25 minutes for a one-way trip, depending on the specific route, weather conditions, and the type of vessel used. This duration is referenced in historical context, noting that the harbour was over two kilometers wide at the time, and the ferries were slower compared to modern vessels.
Length of the Star Ferry Ride in 2025
By 2025, land reclamation on both sides of Victoria Harbour has significantly reduced the distance between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, shrinking the harbour to just over 800 meters in some areas. As a result, the Star Ferry ride has become shorter. Current sources consistently indicate that the standard ferry ride between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and Wan Chai takes approximately 8 to 10 minutes for a one-way trip. This duration applies to the regular passenger service on the double-ended ferries, which are designed for efficiency and frequent service.
Key Factors Influencing the Change
Land Reclamation: Over the decades, extensive land reclamation projects in Hong Kong, particularly in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, have reduced the width of Victoria Harbour. By 2006, the journey was noted to be half the distance it was in earlier decades, contributing to the shorter travel time in 2025.
Victoria Harbour (Star Ferry Route) Width in 1995
In 1995, before significant reclamation projects like the Central Reclamation Phase III (1999–2006) were fully implemented, the distance across Victoria Harbour from the TST Star Ferry Pier to the Central Star Ferry Pier was approximately 2 kilometers (1.24 miles).
This measurement is based on historical records indicating that the harbour was much wider prior to the major reclamation efforts that began in the late 1990s. For instance, a north-south line from the Avenue of Stars in TST to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) in Central was reported to be well over 2 km before reclamation started.
Victoria Harbour (Star Ferry Route) Width in 2025
By 2025, reclamation projects had reduced the width of Victoria Harbour considerably. Sources indicate that the channel between TST and Central is now less than half of what it was about two decades ago, with an estimated width of around 900 meters (0.56 miles) in 2019, measured from the Avenue of Stars to the HKCEC. Given that reclamation continued in some areas, the width in 2025 is likely close to 900 meters or slightly less, depending on the exact points measured between the current TST Star Ferry Pier and the relocated Central Star Ferry Pier (now at Pier 7, near the International Finance Centre).
Vessel Design and Technology: While the Star Ferry’s design has remained largely consistent since the 1950s, modern ferries are larger and equipped with more efficient engines, allowing for slightly faster crossings compared to the 1970s.
Route Consistency: The primary routes (Tsim Sha Tsui to Central and Tsim Sha Tsui to Wan Chai) have remained the same, but the reduced distance due to reclamation directly impacts the duration.
Reduction in Harbour vessel traffic: A point overlooked but it is also a critical factor on the ferry ride time is the small matter of the reduction of boat traffic in Victoria Harbour which has reduced dramatically over the past 25 years, back in the day the ferries had to dodge other vessels constantly and actually come to a full stop when larger vessels passed by, this sometimes added 5 or 10 minutes to the journey, sadly this almost never happens in 2025, it is pretty much an easy and straight run
Summary
1970s: The Star Ferry ride across Victoria Harbour took approximately 25 minutes due to a wider harbour and slower vessels.
2025: The Star Ferry ride takes approximately 8 to 10 minutes for the standard routes (Tsim Sha Tsui to Central or Wan Chai), reflecting the reduced harbour width and improved vessel efficiency.
Future Analysis and Mainland Chinese Tourists
The Star Ferry’s future hinges on its ability to balance heritage with financial sustainability. The 2019–2022 financial crisis, exacerbated by protests and the pandemic, highlighted its vulnerability. However, recovering tourism, particularly from Mainland China, offers hope. Mainland Chinese tourists, drawn to the ferry’s iconic status and scenic rides, especially during events like the A Symphony of Lights show, contribute significantly to revenue. Crowds at piers are returning to pre-pandemic levels, indicating strong demand.
The partnership with The Peninsula Hotel and the Disneyland route are strategic moves to tap into the premium and family tourism markets, which are popular among Mainland Chinese visitors. These initiatives, combined with the ferry’s low fares, ensure accessibility and appeal. However, the company’s reliance on pier rental revenue (approximately 50% of its income) and the lack of significant profits since 2017 suggest a need for further diversification, such as more premium services or government subsidies for eco-friendly upgrades like electric ferries.
Mainland Chinese tourism, expected to grow with Hong Kong’s reopening, will likely bolster financial stability, but competition from modern transport options and high operational costs remain challenges. Investments from tycoons or public-private partnerships, as suggested by Reuters, could be crucial to preserving this cultural icon. Without such support, the Star Ferry risks becoming a relic, despite its enduring popularity.
My insider tip
Please note that in general if you book a tour on Viator or Tripadvisor you generally have NO control over what guide will lead your Private Tour of Hong Kong and this is the most important component of the tour. I urge you to check the actual company website and book via their website and do not forget to read Tripadvisor reviews as well.
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