Then and Now Hong Kong - The Clock Tower, TST, Kowloon
They should have preserved the Railway Station next to it
Me Jamie, your host, I am English and I have lived in Hong Kong for 53 years - I know the place.
I have personally completed 2,340+ Private Tours and Experiences (over 6,500+ guests) since April 2011 and I am considered one of the finest Private Tour Guides in Asia.
A blog post with a difference
Please do visit Hong Kong in 2025 | Travel, Tourism, Tours, Tips, Daily Life and my personal thoughts on Hong Kong.
Hong Kong | Pearl of the Orient
Customised Private Tours & Experiences in Amazing Hong Kong
Pearl of the Orient
Private Tours Cultural Tours Walking Tours Sightseeing Tours City Tours Night Tours Transit Tours Shore Excursions
Carefully Crafted Personalised and Customised Itineraries by Jamie | Hong Kong’s Most Experienced Private Tour Guide For :
Solo Travellers Friends Families Seniors Couples Business People
J3 Group Hong Kong | J3 Consultants Hong Kong | J3 Private Tours Hong Kong
Creating Memories That Will Last A Lifetime
Book Now
Then and Now Hong Kong - The Clock Tower, TST, Kowloon
They should have preserved the Railway Station next to it
click on the image to enlarge
The Clock Tower next to the Star Ferry in Hong Kong is a proper cultural icon but for me the icon was the KCR Railway Station next to it, demolished long ago, what a magnificent building and I visited it on a regular basis as a kid, it is a tragedy that it was not saved and protected and yes, they could still have built the monstrosity that is the Cultural Centre!
I have lived in Hong Kong for 53 years and on January 3rd 1972 I got my introduction to the Clock Tower, the KCR Railway Station and the waterfront promenade - we walked from the Merlin Hotel in TST Kowloon to the Star Ferry and eventually crossed Victoria Harbour, I remember the ferry ride but what stuck with me was the Railway Station and that clock tower.
To this day I still do not understand why the people of Hong Kong did not try harder, 15,000 people signed a petition to save the clock tower and the Railway Station, myself included which was presented to Queen Elizabeth, a fat lot of good that did, the Government backed down on the Clock Tower but NOT the Railway Station (sigh) if 50,000 people had signed the petition it might have been saved
I completely understand that cities evolve over time and in Hong Kong knocking down old buildings is an art form and I have no problems with them knocking down shabby apartment blocks 60 years old, but the Railway Station was worth saving., just a personal opinion of course.
So……
The Clock Tower, TST, Kowloon
History and Development of the Clock Tower and Railway Station in TST Kowloon Hong Kong
Introduction
The Clock Tower, officially named the Former Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) Clock Tower, is a prominent landmark on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront along Salisbury Road, Hong Kong. It is the sole remaining structure of the original Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus, which served as a key transportation hub in the early 20th century. This document provides a detailed history, timeline, and analysis of the Clock Tower and the railway station, including architects, builders, costs, demolition details, preservation efforts, notable stories, protected status, and public sentiment.
click on the image to enlarge
In recent years probably 40 - 50 million visitors to Hong Kong have walked past the Clock Tower in TST, Kowloon in Hong Kongand taken a selfie and more than likely they have no idea of it’s history & importance and the significant cultural aspects of this icon
Historical Context
The Kowloon-Canton Railway (British Section) was a significant infrastructure project initiated by the British colonial government to connect Hong Kong with Guangzhou (Canton) and beyond, facilitating trade and travel. The decision to build a railway terminus in Tsim Sha Tsui was made in 1906, with the site chosen on reclaimed land along Victoria Harbour to serve as a gateway for travelers arriving by train or sea.
Timeline of the Clock Tower and KCR Terminus
1906: The colonial British administration decided to construct the Kowloon-Canton Railway, with Tsim Sha Tsui selected as the location for the southern terminus.
1910: The British Section of the Kowloon-Canton Railway commenced service, initially operating from a temporary station as the permanent terminus was not yet built.
1912: Approval was granted for the construction of the Kowloon Terminus on reclaimed land in Tsim Sha Tsui.
1913–1915: Construction of the Kowloon Terminus and its Clock Tower took place. The Clock Tower was erected in 1915, with the entire terminus complex officially opened on 28 March 1916.
1916: The Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus began full operations, serving as a major transport hub connecting Hong Kong to mainland China. The station featured a red-brick and granite design in the Edwardian Classical Revival style.
1920s–1960s: The terminus was a bustling hub, with the Clock Tower serving as a navigational aid for sailors via a time ball that dropped at midday (removed in 1907, before the tower’s completion, due to changes in timekeeping technology). The station facilitated significant passenger traffic, including during festivals like Ching Ming.
1970: The Urban Council proposed constructing a modern cultural venue in Kowloon, leading to plans for the Hong Kong Cultural Centre on the terminus site.
1975: The Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus was relocated to a new, expanded station in Hung Hom due to the original station’s inability to handle increasing passenger volumes.
1977–1978: Demolition of the Kowloon Terminus began in 1977 and was completed in 1978, with the Clock Tower spared due to preservation campaigns. The Hong Kong Space Museum, Hong Kong Museum of Art, and Hong Kong Cultural Centre were later built on the site.
1990: The Clock Tower was declared a monument under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance, granting it legal protection by the Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO).
2010: The original bell of the Clock Tower, removed during the station’s demolition, was returned to Hong Kong and stored at the railway depot in Ho Tung Lau.
2025: The Clock Tower remains a prominent landmark, floodlit at night, and a popular meeting point and tourist attraction along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.
Architects and Builders
Architects: The Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus, including the Clock Tower, was designed by Arthur Benison Hubback, a British architect known for his work on colonial buildings in the Edwardian Classical Revival style. Hubback’s design featured red brickwork, white granite columns, and classical elements like scroll-shaped buttresses and cornices, which gave the station a distinctive and elegant appearance.
Builders: The construction was overseen by the Public Works Department of the Hong Kong Colonial Government, with local contractors and laborers involved in the reclamation and building process. Specific contractors are not well-documented in available records, but the project utilized local materials, including red bricks and granite quarried in Hong Kong.
Estimated Costs: Exact costs for the construction of the terminus and Clock Tower are not explicitly documented in available sources. However, the project was part of a larger railway initiative costing millions in early 20th-century Hong Kong dollars, funded by the colonial government and private investors.
Land reclamation and the use of high-quality materials like granite suggest significant expenditure, likely in the range of several hundred thousand Hong Kong dollars (equivalent to millions in modern terms, adjusted for inflation). The lack of precise figures reflects the limited financial documentation from the period.
click on the image to enlarge
They actually demolished the beautiful railway station and replaced it this horrible building, The Cultural Centre which to me is simply an eyesore, with a bit of re jigging they could have preserved and repurposed the Railway Station (much like they have done at Tai Kwun on Hong Kong Island), such a shame.
Demolition of the Railway Station
Reason for Demolition: The Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus was demolished in 1977–1978 due to several factors:
Capacity Issues:
By the 1970s, the station could no longer accommodate the growing number of daily commuters, necessitating relocation to a larger facility in Hung Hom. (and I have no problem with that, but why demolish such and amazing building?
Urban Development:
The Hong Kong government prioritized modernizing Tsim Sha Tsui’s waterfront, with plans for cultural and commercial developments, including the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Hong Kong Space Museum, and Hong Kong Museum of Art. The old terminus site was seen as prime real estate for these projects. (and I have no problem with that, but they could have saved the building with a few minor alterations to the plans for these 3 buildings)
Economic Considerations:
Maintaining the aging Edwardian-style station was deemed costly compared to building modern facilities. The government favored redevelopment to boost tourism and cultural activities.
Why the Clock Tower Was Spared:
The Clock Tower was preserved due to concerted efforts by conservationists and public campaigns. Despite the government’s initial plan to demolish the entire terminus, advocacy groups highlighted the tower’s architectural and historical significance as a symbol of Hong Kong’s colonial and railway heritage. A petition with 15,000 signatures sent to Queen Elizabeth II underscored public support for its preservation. The tower’s relatively small footprint and standalone nature made it feasible to retain it amidst new developments (and the Railway Station has a relatively small footprint)
Opposition to Demolition:
There was significant opposition to the demolition of the terminus, particularly from heritage conservationists. Campaigners argued that the station, with its Edwardian architecture and historical role, was a vital part of Hong Kong’s identity. The public outcry was strong enough to save the Clock Tower but insufficient to preserve the entire station, as the government prioritized modernization. The demolition sparked debates about balancing heritage preservation with urban progress, a recurring theme in Hong Kong’s development.
Year of Demolition:
The demolition of the Kowloon Terminus was completed in 1978.
Protected Status of the Railway Station
Pre-Demolition Status: At the time of its demolition in 1977–1978, the Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus did not have formal protected status under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance, which was enacted in 1976. The lack of legal protection facilitated the government’s decision to demolish the station, as heritage conservation policies were still developing in Hong Kong.
Post-Demolition Status of the Clock Tower: In 1990, the Clock Tower was officially declared a monument by the Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO), granting it legal protection from demolition or significant alteration. This status ensures that any modifications to the tower must be approved by the AMO to preserve its historical and architectural integrity.
Speculation on Preserving the Railway Station Alongside the Cultural Centre
Feasibility Analysis: The Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus was relatively small compared to modern transportation hubs, occupying a site now partially covered by the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Hong Kong Space Museum, and Hong Kong Museum of Art. Given its compact size, it is plausible that the station could have been preserved alongside the Cultural Centre with creative urban planning:
Adaptive Reuse: The station could have been repurposed as a cultural or commercial space, similar to the revitalization of the Tai Kwun Centre (former Central Police Station) or Lui Seng Chun, which were transformed into cultural and healthcare facilities. The station’s Edwardian architecture could have complemented the Cultural Centre’s modern design, creating a blend of old and new.
Space Constraints: The terminus site was on prime waterfront land, and the government prioritized maximizing space for new cultural facilities. However, integrating the station into the Cultural Centre’s design (e.g., as an exhibition hall or museum wing) could have been feasible, as the station’s footprint was not excessively large. The six railway pillars relocated to the Urban Council Centenary Garden in TST East demonstrate that partial preservation was possible.
Challenges: Preservation would have required significant maintenance costs due to the station’s age and the need for structural upgrades. Public and political will in the 1970s leaned toward modernization, and heritage conservation was not as prioritized as it is today. The lack of a strong legal framework for heritage protection at the time also limited preservation efforts.
Conclusion: While technically feasible, preserving the entire station would have required visionary planning and stronger public support. The decision to demolish it reflected the era’s focus on progress over heritage, but the successful preservation of the Clock Tower suggests that selective retention was achievable.
The actual Bell in the Clock Tower - the complete story
Bell Location and Function
Original Bell and Its History: The Clock Tower’s bell was cast in 1919 by John Taylor & Co. in Loughborough, England, and installed in 1920. It began chiming on March 21, 1921, at 3:00 PM, initially ringing every 15 minutes to mark time. The bell was part of a striking mechanism operated by an electric motor, controlled by a master clock system.
However, by 1950, the bell’s operation ceased due to synchronization issues caused by the installation of four separate motors for the clock faces, which disrupted the chime’s accuracy.
Relocation of the Bell: In 1976, the bell was removed from the top of the Clock Tower during the demolition of the Kowloon Terminus. It was displayed at Hung Hom Station’s concourse, then moved to Sha Tin Station in 1984, and later to the Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation (KCRC) House in Fo Tan in 1995.
In 2010, to mark the centenary of railway services in Hong Kong, the KCRC and MTR Corporation donated the bell to the Hong Kong Government, and it was returned to the Clock Tower in 2010.
However, instead of being reinstalled at the top, it was placed on display at the base of the tower, likely for public viewing and preservation.
Current Bell Chimes: In 2021, as part of the “Centenary of the Bell” celebrations, the Clock Tower’s bell chimes were reinstated, but not through the original physical bell. Instead, a digital bell system synchronized with the Hong Kong Observatory’s web clock was introduced, allowing chimes to ring hourly from 8 AM to midnight.
This suggests that the original bell at the base is for display only and does not actively ring. There is no definitive evidence in the provided sources that a physical bell currently exists at the top of the tower or that the original bell was reinstalled there. The chimes heard today are likely produced electronically, preserving the historical sound without relying on the physical bell.
Potential Reasons for Displaying the Bell at the Bottom
While the sources do not explicitly state why the bell is now displayed at the base of the Clock Tower, several plausible reasons can be inferred:
Preservation and Safety: The bell, being a historical artifact from 1919, may be too fragile or heavy to be reinstalled at the top of the tower. Displaying it at the base protects it from environmental exposure and structural stress while allowing public access for educational purposes.
Technological Upgrade: The adoption of a digital bell system in 2021 eliminates the need for a physical bell to produce chimes. Digital systems are easier to maintain, more reliable, and can be synchronized precisely with modern timekeeping standards, unlike the original mechanical system that faced synchronization issues by 1950.
Public Accessibility: Placing the bell at the base allows visitors to view it closely, enhancing its role as a historical exhibit. The Clock Tower’s interior is currently closed for maintenance, so reinstalling the bell at the top would make it inaccessible to the public.
Structural Considerations: The tower’s structure, built in 1915, may not support the weight or vibrations of the original bell and its striking mechanism without risking damage. The bell’s removal in 1976 and the tower’s designation as a monument in 1990 suggest a focus on preserving the structure itself.
Cost and Maintenance: Reinstalling the bell and its mechanical striking system at the top would require significant restoration and ongoing maintenance, which may not be cost-effective compared to a digital system. The original bell’s display at the base simplifies upkeep while maintaining its historical significance.
Historical Narrative: Displaying the bell at the base, alongside interpretive materials, may be part of the “Centenary of the Bell” initiative to educate visitors about the tower’s history, especially since the original bell was absent for decades before its return in 2010.
Does the Clock Tower Have a Real Bell at the Top That Rings?
Based on available information, it is unlikely that a physical bell is currently installed at the top of the Clock Tower that actively rings. The original bell, cast in 1919, is displayed at the base of the tower and does not function as a timekeeping chime. The hourly chimes heard since December 9, 2021, are produced by a digital bell system synchronized with the Hong Kong Observatory’s web clock, not a physical bell.
No sources confirm the presence of a new or replacement bell at the top of the tower. The digital system likely replicates the sound of the original bell, preserving its historical significance without the logistical challenges of operating a mechanical bell.
Historical Connection: The original bell, now at the base, was the functional bell from 1921 to 1950. Its relocation history (Hung Hom, Sha Tin, Fo Tan, and back to TST) reflects efforts to preserve it as a historical artifact rather than a functional component. The digital chimes introduced in 2021 serve as a modern tribute to the bell’s centenary, connecting the tower’s past to its present role as a cultural landmark.
and the bell sounds tinny, it sounds nothing like a real iron bell (sigh)
Clock Maintenance Team
While the sources do not explicitly detail a specific maintenance team for the Clock Tower’s clock mechanism, it is reasonable to assume that a team exists, given the tower’s status as a declared monument and its operational clock. Key points include:
Clock Operation: The clock has been operational since 1921, with a brief interruption during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong (1941–1945). The clock faces are part of an electric system controlled by a master clock, originally supplied by Gent & Co. Ltd. of Leicester, England, and synchronized with the Royal Observatory. This system requires regular maintenance to ensure accuracy and functionality.
Maintenance Responsibility: The Clock Tower is managed by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD) of the Hong Kong Government, as indicated by their oversight of the “Centenary of the Bell” events and guided tours. The LCSD likely coordinates a team of technicians or horologists to maintain the clock’s mechanism, ensuring it remains synchronized and operational. The tower’s interior is currently closed for maintenance, suggesting ongoing care by a dedicated team.
Historical Maintenance: Historically, the clock was maintained by railway engineers, such as Mr. Baker of the KCR, who oversaw its installation in 1921. Modern maintenance would likely involve specialists in heritage conservation and clock mechanics, possibly in collaboration with external experts like John Taylor & Co., who supported the bell’s centenary celebrations.
Speculation: Given the tower’s status as a declared monument, maintenance is likely handled by a combination of government-employed technicians and contracted specialists. The digital bell system would require IT and audio technicians to ensure synchronization with the Hong Kong Observatory’s timekeeping system.
Summary
The Tsim Sha Tsui Clock Tower, completed in 1915, is a remnant of the Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus, a key hub in Hong Kong’s early 20th-century development. The original bell, cast in 1919, chimed from 1921 until 1950 but was removed in 1976 and is now displayed at the tower’s base for preservation and public viewing. Since 2021, a digital bell system produces hourly chimes, and no physical bell is likely at the top. The clock remains operational, maintained by the LCSD, ensuring its continued function as a historical and cultural landmark
Notable Stories and Facts
Architectural Features: The Clock Tower’s design includes an octagonal domed belfry with white-painted classical features like scroll-shaped buttresses and cornices. It originally had a single clock face salvaged from another tower, but by 1921, four synchronized clock faces were installed, controlled by a master clock system linked to the Royal Observatory
Time Ball Mechanism: The Clock Tower originally featured a time ball that dropped at midday to help sailors calibrate their navigational instruments. This apparatus was removed in 1907, before the tower’s completion, due to advancements in timekeeping technology.
World War II Resilience: The Clock Tower and terminus withstood Japanese bombings during World War II, unlike other structures that were damaged or destroyed. This resilience contributed to its iconic status.
Cultural Significance: The terminus was a gateway for travelers, including during festivals like Ching Ming, when crowds overwhelmed the station. A notable story from a 60-year-old Hong Kong resident, Fok, recalls being lifted through a train window as a child due to overcrowding, highlighting the station’s role in community life.
Cinematic Appearances: The Clock Tower and its surroundings have appeared in films, including mentions in the James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun (1974), which references the nearby Peninsula Hotel’s Rolls-Royce fleet, underscoring the area’s cultural prominence.
Architectural Style: The Clock Tower’s Edwardian Classical Revival design, with its 44-meter height (51 meters including the lightning rod) and octagonal domed belfry, contrasts with the modern skyline, making it a visual landmark.
Relocated Artifacts: Six pillars from the railway were preserved and relocated to the Urban Council Centenary Garden in TST East, preserving additional elements of the station’s legacy.
AMO Protection Status
Current Status: The Clock Tower is protected by the Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO) as a Declared Monument under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance since 1990. This status ensures that the tower cannot be demolished or significantly altered without AMO approval, safeguarding its historical and architectural value. The AMO’s protection reflects the tower’s significance as a remnant of Hong Kong’s railway history and colonial heritage.
Speculation on Public Opinion in Hong Kong
Cultural Icon: The Clock Tower is widely regarded as an iconic symbol of Hong Kong’s colonial past and railway heritage. Its location on the TST waterfront, near landmarks like the Star Ferry Pier and the Peninsula Hotel, makes it a popular meeting point and tourist attraction. Hongkongers likely view it with nostalgia, especially older generations who associate it with the original terminus and personal memories of travel.
Pride in Preservation: The successful campaign to save the Clock Tower, including the 15,000-signature petition, suggests strong public attachment. The tower’s survival amidst rapid urban development likely fosters pride among residents who value heritage preservation, particularly as Hong Kong has lost many historical buildings to modernization.
Tourist Appeal: For younger residents and tourists, the Clock Tower is a picturesque landmark, often photographed against Victoria Harbour’s skyline. Its floodlit appearance at night and proximity to cultural venues enhance its appeal. Social media and tourism guides frequently highlight it, indicating positive public sentiment.
Potential Critiques: Some residents may view the tower as a colonial relic, sparking mixed feelings in a city with a complex history of British rule and Chinese identity. However, its integration into the modern TST landscape and its AMO protection likely outweigh such critiques, positioning it as a unifying symbol of Hong Kong’s evolving identity.
Speculative Conclusion: The people of Hong Kong likely regard the Clock Tower with affection and pride, valuing its historical significance and aesthetic appeal. Its preservation serves as a reminder of the importance of balancing development with heritage, a sentiment reinforced by recent conservation efforts for other sites like the Shek Kip Mei reservoir.
Sir Matthew Nathan’s Role
Sir Matthew Nathan (who was Jewish) the 13th Governor of Hong Kong from 1904 to 1907, played a pivotal role in the early planning of the Kowloon-Canton Railway, though his direct involvement in the construction of the TST Terminus and Clock Tower was limited due to his tenure ending before major construction began.
Advocacy and Planning: Nathan was a strong proponent of infrastructure development to strengthen Hong Kong’s economic position. He recognized the strategic importance of a railway connecting Hong Kong to mainland China, emphasizing its role in maintaining Hong Kong’s predominance as a trading hub between the Pearl River Delta and global ports.
Site Selection Influence: Nathan initially favored Blackhead Point for the KCR terminus but later supported the decision to place it in TST on reclaimed land to save costs and make the acquired land available for other purposes. This decision shaped the eventual location of the permanent Kowloon Terminus and Clock Tower.
Approval and Early Development (1904–1906): During Nathan’s governorship, the decision to build the British Section of the KCR was finalized in 1904, and preliminary survey work began. Construction started in early 1906, laying the groundwork for the project. Nathan’s administration was instrumental in securing the necessary approvals and funding, including a £1.5 million loan for the Chinese Section.
Limitations: Nathan left Hong Kong in 1907, before the railway’s opening in 1910 and the start of the TST Terminus construction in 1913. Thus, while he was critical in initiating the project, the actual construction and completion of the station and Clock Tower occurred under his successors, notably Sir Henry May.
Conclusion
It is reasonable to assume that Sir Matthew Nathan had a significant role in the early stages of the Kowloon-Canton Railway project, particularly in its planning, approval, and site selection. His vision for the railway as a means to bolster Hong Kong’s economic connectivity was foundational.
However, the construction of the TST Terminus and Clock Tower, which began in 1913 and was completed in 1915–1916, occurred after his tenure, so his direct influence on those specific developments was limited. His broader contributions to the railway’s establishment, including the decision to locate the terminus in TST, were crucial to the project’s eventual realization.
Overall Conclusion
The Clock Tower and the former Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus represent a significant chapter in Hong Kong’s history, reflecting its colonial past, railway development, and urban evolution. While the station was demolished in 1978 to make way for modern cultural facilities, the Clock Tower’s preservation, driven by public advocacy, underscores its enduring value. Protected by the AMO since 1990, the tower remains a cherished landmark, symbolizing Hong Kong’s ability to retain fragments of its heritage amidst rapid modernization. Its history, architectural beauty, and cultural significance continue to resonate with residents and visitors alike.
So there you go
My insider tip
Please note that in general if you book a tour on Viator or Tripadvisor you generally have NO control over what guide will lead your Private Tour of Hong Kong and this is the most important component of the tour. I urge you to check the actual company website and book via their website and do not forget to read Tripadvisor reviews as well.
© Jamie Lloyd | J3 Consultants Hong Kong | J3 Private Tours Hong Kong |
| 2010 - 2025 All rights reserved. |
Click on any image to enlarge to full screen
Current images from my Instagram feed
