Then and Now Hong Kong - St. Johns Cathedral opened 1849
An Anglican Cathedral with a unique and interesting history
Me Jamie, your host, I am English and I have lived in Hong Kong since January 2nd 1972 - I know the place.
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Then and Now Hong Kong - St. Johns Cathedral opened 1849
An Anglican Cathedral with a unique and interesting history
click on the image to enlarge
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St. Johns Cathedral | Central District | Hong Kong - 1880’s
This is an amazing old image of St. Johns Cathedral in Central District, the white historic building to the right was originally called Johnston House and underwent renovations to make it larger in the 1880’s before it became the French Mission Building and had the red brick exterior added, both buildings are still there today!
I am always amazed by pictures of Victoria Peak (in the background) it looks quite different today.
The grass patch in front of the buildings was the Murray House Parade Ground (Military) which became the Hilton Hotel and finally Cheong Kong Centre
I have lived in Hong Kong for 53 years and on January 3rd 1972 I got my introduction to St. Johns, we simply walked from the Cenotaph in Statue Square, to some very famous steps that lead to Battery Path and St. Johns Cathedral and I have to say it does not appear to have changed much! other than new coats of weather proof paint over the decades.
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St. Johns Cathedral | Central District | Hong Kong - 2025
One of the things that annoys me the most about St. Johns Cathedral is it’s rather awkward location, it sits on what used to be a little hill and whilst it might seem to be in a great location, trust me it isn’t, most tourists access it via Chater Garden and Garden Road and that means quite a long walk and uphill, locals tend to go there via Cheung Kong Centre but that means walking up a bunch of steep steps and there are no obvious ways for you to see how to get there via Cheung Kong Centre
The 3rd option is one I prefer and if you are tourist in Hong Kong it would not occur to you to use this option as basically it is invisible but hiding in plain sight! and even then there is an insider tip for you to use which means you have a choice to use steps or an escalator!
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To get to the steps to St. Johns Cathedral via Battery Path | Walk through the open concourse of HSBC, cross Queens Road Central, turn right | Hong Kong - 2025
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Steps to St. Johns Cathedral via Battery Path | Central District | Hong Kong - 2025
Basically, you have to walk underneath the open concourse of HSBC Headquarters which is on Queens Road Central and Des Vouex Road, you cannot miss the building, stop to rub the angry bronze lion and then walk through the concourse (refer to the images) this gets you to Queens Road Central and the traffic gridlock is like that every day.
Head to the pedestrian crossing (do not cross on a red light) and cross the road and turn right and walk for about 30 - 40m or so, keep looking to the left and you will see the steps and the big sign for St. Johns Cathedral.
Now, here is where my insider tip comes into play, I am NOT a steps person and those steps are too steep, however if you walk past the sign after about 10m you will see an escalator going up on the left, you cannot miss it, it is next to a bunch of bus stops and looks out of place.
Ride the escalator to the top, get off and turn left, you are now on Battery Path (both Battery Path and the steps are very, very old) the gradient of Battery Path is fine, head towards the red brick building which for some reason is still called the old former French Mission Building, in its long history the building was occupied by a French Religious Group for a short period of time, the building has been used and is still used to house aspects of the Legal Department in Hong Kong, swing right for about 5m and St. Johns Cathedral is right there.
Let the games begin, these days I am not one for fluff pieces, I do a lot of research and it shows.
Comprehensive History and Analysis of St. John’s Cathedral, Hong Kong
Construction Timeline, Opening, Cost, and Funding
Construction Start and Finish:
Start: The foundation stone of St. John’s Cathedral was laid on March 11, 1847, by Sir John Davis, the then-Governor of Hong Kong.
Finish: Construction was completed in 1849, with the cathedral opening for divine service later that year.
Opening for Business:
The cathedral held its first Sunday service on March 11, 1849, initially operating under a license from the Bishop of London. It was formally consecrated by George Smith, the first Bishop of Victoria, on September 19, 1852, due to technical delays in the consecration process.
Construction Cost:
Specific records detailing the exact construction cost of St. John’s Cathedral are not widely available in the provided sources or general historical records. However, as a significant colonial project, it was likely a substantial investment for the time, given its architectural style and central location. The cathedral was built during Hong Kong’s early colonial period, when resources were allocated to establish British institutions.
Funding:
The cathedral was primarily funded by the British colonial government and the Anglican Church, with support from the colonial community. Queen Victoria’s administration played a key role, as the cathedral was intended to serve both the civilian population and the British Army garrison. The freehold land grant, discussed later, was a direct contribution from the colonial government under Queen Victoria’s authority, indicating significant governmental backing.
Analysis:
The rapid construction (1847–1849) reflects the urgency to establish a permanent Anglican presence in the newly colonized Hong Kong. The lack of precise cost data may be due to the cathedral’s integration into broader colonial budgets, where ecclesiastical projects were often subsumed under government or military expenditures. The funding model underscores the cathedral’s role as a symbol of British colonial and religious authority.
Number of Buildings and Their Purpose on the Site
Buildings on the Site:
St. John’s Cathedral (Main Building):
Purpose: The primary place of worship, serving as the cathedral church for the Anglican Diocese of Hong Kong Island and the mother church of the Province of Hong Kong and Macao. It hosts regular services, including nine services on Saturdays and Sundays, and special events like weddings and memorial services.
Architectural Style: Early English and Decorated Gothic, with features like lancet arches, ribbed course lines, and a cruciform shape added in an 1873 extension.
Li Hall:
Purpose: A community and administrative space used for meetings, social events, and cathedral activities. It replaced an earlier 19th-century hall and was constructed between 1918 and 1921.
Function: Supports the cathedral’s outreach programs, such as social enterprise initiatives and community gatherings.
Bookshop and Gift Shop:
Purpose: A small retail space offering religious and historical books, gifts, and cathedral-related merchandise. It operates as part of the cathedral’s community engagement and fundraising efforts.
Function: Enhances visitor experience and supports the cathedral’s operations financially.
Social Enterprise Cafe (Adjacent Building):
Purpose: A cafe run as a social enterprise, providing refreshments and a space for visitors and worshippers to relax. It aligns with the cathedral’s mission to serve the community.
Additional Features:
Memorial Cross: A large Celtic cross, unveiled in 1921 and replaced in 1952, commemorates soldiers killed in World Wars I and II. It is not a building but a significant structure on the site.
Grave of Private Ronald Douglas Maxwell: The only grave on the cathedral grounds, marked by a tombstone.
Analysis:
The site is compact but multifunctional, balancing worship, community engagement, and historical commemoration. The addition of Li Hall and the cafe reflects the cathedral’s evolution from a purely religious space to a community hub, adapting to modern needs while preserving its historical significance.
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St. Johns Cathedral | Central District | Hong Kong - 2025
Freehold Property Status and Land Lease
Is it the only Freehold Property in Hong Kong? a fact not widely known even to Hong Kong residents.
Yes, St. John’s Cathedral is widely recognized as the only freehold land in Hong Kong, granted in fee simple under the Church of England Trust Ordinance (Cap. 1014) of 1930. Unlike the rest of Hong Kong, where land is typically leasehold (e.g., 75, 99, or 999-year leases), the cathedral’s land is owned outright by the Anglican Church, not leased from the Hong Kong government.
Details:
The freehold status was granted by Queen Victoria in 1847 to ensure a permanent place for British Christian worship and to reinforce British cultural influence in the colony.
The Church of England Trust Ordinance codifies this arrangement, stipulating that the land must be used for ecclesiastical purposes in perpetuity. The land remains under the symbolic authority of the Church of England, with local management by the Anglican Diocese of Hong Kong Island.
Analysis:
The freehold status is unique in Hong Kong’s land system, where the government typically retains ultimate ownership. This exception highlights the cathedral’s historical and political significance as a vestige of British colonial rule. The 1997 handover did not alter this status, preserving the cathedral’s autonomy. This arrangement may raise questions about sovereignty and land rights in a post-colonial context, but it remains legally protected.
Size of the Land Occupied
Land Size:
The cathedral occupies a 53,147-square-foot plot on Garden Road, Central, Hong Kong. This land is valued at an estimated HK$3.99 billion, reflecting its prime location amidst skyscrapers like the Bank of China Tower and HSBC Building.
Analysis:
The relatively small size of the plot contrasts with its immense financial and symbolic value, given its location in Hong Kong’s financial district. The freehold status enhances its worth, as it is not subject to lease renewals or government reclamation. The land’s value underscores the cathedral’s role as a historical and cultural landmark in a city dominated by commercial real estate.
Soldier’s Grave on the Land
Who is Buried There?
The only grave on the cathedral grounds belongs to Private Ronald Douglas Maxwell of the Hong Kong Volunteer Defence Corps (HKVDC). He was killed in Wan Chai on December 22, 1941, three days before the British surrender during the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong. His grave is marked by a Portland stone headstone, maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC).
Details:
Maxwell, a Catholic, was buried on the cathedral grounds due to the urgency of the wartime situation, despite the cathedral being Anglican. His funeral is detailed in the book Jesuits Under Fire, which describes the circumstances of his burial during the chaotic Battle of Hong Kong.
The grave is located near the Memorial Cross and is the only burial within the cathedral precinct, making it a unique feature.
Analysis:
Maxwell’s burial on Anglican grounds, despite his Catholic faith, reflects the practical necessities of wartime, where formalities were often overlooked. The CWGC’s maintenance of the grave underscores its historical significance, linking the cathedral to Hong Kong’s wartime narrative. The presence of a single grave enhances the site’s solemnity and historical depth.
Church Hierarchy
Hierarchy of St. John’s Cathedral:
Archbishop of Hong Kong: The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Hong Kong, who oversees the Province of Hong Kong and Macao. The current archbishop is not specified in the sources, but Peter Kwong was the first Chinese archbishop in 1998.
Bishop of Hong Kong Island: The cathedral is also the seat of the Bishop of Hong Kong Island, currently Matthias Der, who manages the diocese’s 16 churches, including St. John’s.
Dean of St. John’s Cathedral: The Very Reverend Kwok-keung Chan serves as the dean, responsible for the day-to-day operations and spiritual leadership of the cathedral.
Clergy Team: Includes vicars, priests, and other clergymen who conduct services and manage cathedral activities. The team operates under the Church of England’s authority but with local autonomy.
Trustees: A group of senior Anglican Church members, including the bishop and dean, oversee the cathedral’s freehold land and ensure its ecclesiastical use.
Analysis:
The hierarchy reflects a blend of colonial legacy (Church of England oversight) and local adaptation (Chinese leadership since 1981). The structure ensures continuity of Anglican traditions while allowing flexibility to serve Hong Kong’s diverse community. The trustees’ role in managing the freehold land highlights the cathedral’s unique legal status.
Stories About the Blue Interior Ceiling
Details:
There are no specific stories or references in the provided sources about a “blue interior ceiling” at St. John’s Cathedral. The cathedral’s interior is described as featuring a ship’s hull-shaped ceiling with large fans, stained-glass windows, and cane wicker pews, but no mention is made of a blue ceiling, which has been there for as long as I cam remember
However the image you sent.... (yes I sent an image to show the blue ceiling)
The image shows the ceiling of St. John’s Cathedral, which appears to have a distinctive blue hue. this is NOT a hue, it as painted with a specific blue paint and is very apparent even in 2025! This is a notable feature of the cathedral’s interior, which is designed in an Early English and Decorated Gothic style. The ceiling, often described as resembling a ship’s hull, is a nod to the architectural traditions of the time and may also reflect practical considerations for ventilation in Hong Kong’s humid climate. The blue color is likely a modern or restored finish, as historical records don’t explicitly mention a blue ceiling in the original 1849 construction or its 1873 extension. The ceiling also features large fans, historically referred to as “punkahs,” which were used to cool the congregation, as air conditioning was not installed to preserve the building’s original appearance
The ceiling’s design, resembling a ship’s hull, is a nod to Hong Kong’s maritime history, and the fans were historically used to keep the congregation cool in the subtropical climate.
Analysis:
The absence of references to a blue ceiling suggests this may be a misconception or confusion with another church but your image says otherwise. There is no mistake, confusion or otherwise, my July 25th 2025 images clearly show a blue ceiling.!!
The ship’s hull ceiling is a distinctive feature, likely intended to evoke a sense of protection and journey, aligning with the cathedral’s colonial and missionary context. If a blue ceiling exists, it may be a later addition not documented in the sources or a misinterpretation of the stained-glass windows’ hues.
It is not a question of if the Blue ceiling in St. Johns Cathedral exists, it has done so for a very long time and I have the pictures to prove it! The ceiling is very striking.
This is one of the problems with research and why I am pretty good at it, because I have lived here for so long I can spot a mistake a mile away!
Use During Japanese Occupation (1941–1945)
Use During Occupation:
During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong (December 1941–August 1945), St. John’s Cathedral was converted into a clubhouse for the Japanese, specifically for Japanese officers and personnel.
The cathedral suffered significant damage, with many original fittings, including the stained-glass windows created by William Morris’ firm, stripped out or destroyed.
Despite the occupation, a notable service was held on Christmas morning 1941 by Reverend Alaric P. Rose, attended by 100 congregants amidst ongoing shelling, demonstrating resilience.
Analysis:
The conversion into a Japanese clubhouse reflects the occupiers’ repurposing of colonial symbols for their own use, stripping the cathedral of its sacred function. The damage to fittings, particularly the William Morris windows, represents a loss of cultural heritage, though the cathedral’s restoration post-war highlights its enduring significance. The Christmas 1941 service underscores the congregation’s determination to maintain faith under duress.
World War II Memorial, Regiment Flags, Plaques, and Books of Casualties
World War II Memorial:
Memorial Cross: A large Celtic cross, unveiled by Governor Sir Reginald Stubbs in 1921 to honor World War I soldiers, was modified during the Japanese occupation (reduced to a granite column) and replaced in 1952 with a new Celtic cross commemorating both World Wars. The original bronze tablet listing World War I casualties is housed in St. Michael’s Chapel inside the cathedral.
Regiment Flags: Tattered regimental colors are displayed in St. Michael’s Chapel, buried during World War II to protect them from Japanese forces. These flags represent British and colonial military units and are a poignant reminder of wartime sacrifices.
Plaques: Memorial plaques include one for William Thornton Bate, killed in the 1857 Battle of Canton, and others commemorating military and civilian figures. The bronze tablet in St. Michael’s Chapel lists World War I casualties.
Books of Casualties: No specific mention is made of books of casualties in the cathedral, but the CWGC’s documentation of Ronald Douglas Maxwell’s grave suggests records of war dead are maintained, possibly in archival form.
… and here we go again, getting into an argument with a computer, the memorial books exist in a glass cabinet and have done so for as long as I can remember and have current images to prove it.
However your image shows otherwise, therefore:
You referenced a photo showing three war casualty books in a glass case, one titled “Roll of officers killed or died in Hong Kong.” These books are likely part of the cathedral’s memorial displays, which commemorate those who died in conflicts, particularly during World War I and World War II. St. John’s Cathedral has a significant history tied to Hong Kong’s colonial and wartime past, and such displays are common in Anglican churches with military connections.
The “Roll of officers killed or died in Hong Kong” likely pertains to casualties from the Battle of Hong Kong (December 1941) during the Japanese invasion, which began the day after the attack on Pearl Harbor. The cathedral itself was briefly converted into a Japanese clubhouse during the occupation (1941–1945), and many memorials were damaged or altered. After the war, the cathedral was restored, and memorials like these books were established or reinstated to honor the fallen. The specific book you mentioned may include officers from the British garrison or other forces stationed in Hong Kong, as the cathedral was originally intended to serve both the civilian congregation and the British Army.
The glass case in St. Michael’s Chapel, where such memorials are often kept, also houses a bronze tablet listing First World War casualties, moved there after the war memorial cross outside was modified.These books are a testament to the cathedral’s role as a center for remembrance in Hong Kong.
Uniqueness:
The combination of a memorial cross, regimental flags, and plaques and such is not entirely unique, as many Anglican cathedrals in former British colonies feature similar memorials. However, the specific context—Hong Kong’s colonial history, the Japanese occupation, and the single grave of Maxwell—makes St. John’s memorial elements distinctive. The burial of flags during World War II to protect them is a rare and dramatic story.
Analysis:
The memorials serve as a bridge between Hong Kong’s colonial past and its wartime history, preserving the memory of British and local sacrifices. The flags’ burial reflects the congregation’s resistance to occupation, while the cross’s restoration symbolizes post-war recovery. The lack of explicit mention of casualty books may indicate they are part of broader diocesan or CWGC records rather than a public display.
Largest Congregation Size
Congregation Capacity:
Exact figures for the cathedral’s maximum congregation size are not specified in the sources. However, it serves approximately 40,000 Anglican Christians in Hong Kong Island, suggesting a significant capacity.
The cathedral hosts nine services on weekends, indicating it can accommodate multiple smaller congregations or a large single gathering. Historical accounts mention 100 attendees during the 1941 Christmas service, but this was under wartime conditions, not reflective of capacity.
The nave and ambulatory are described as “cavernous,” suggesting space for several hundred worshippers, typical for a cathedral of its size and Gothic design.
Analysis:
Without precise data, we can estimate a capacity of 300–500 based on comparable Gothic cathedrals, adjusted for the cane wicker pews and open layout. The cathedral’s role as a central hub for Hong Kong’s Anglican community suggests it is designed to handle large gatherings, particularly for major events like Christmas or Easter services.
Society Weddings and Costs
Society Weddings:
St. John’s Cathedral is known for hosting “society weddings,” attracting prominent families due to its historical prestige, central location, and Gothic architecture. Its status as a colonial landmark and the only freehold land in Hong Kong adds to its appeal for high-profile ceremonies.
Cost:
No specific cost figures for weddings are provided in the sources. Wedding costs typically vary based on factors like venue hire, clergy fees, music (e.g., choir or organ), decorations, and additional services. Given the cathedral’s prime location and historical significance, fees are likely higher than at smaller churches, potentially ranging from HK$10,000 to HK$50,000 or more, depending on requirements. Interested parties would need to contact the cathedral directly for current pricing.
Analysis:
The cathedral’s reputation for society weddings reflects its role as a cultural and social institution, bridging colonial heritage with modern Hong Kong’s elite. The lack of public cost data is typical for religious venues, where fees are negotiated privately. The cathedral’s bookshop and website likely provide guidance for prospective couples, emphasizing its accessibility despite its prestige.
Welsh Male Voice Choir
Current Status:
There is no mention in the provided sources of a Welsh Male Voice Choir currently performing at St. John’s Cathedral. The cathedral is known for its choir, which performs during Sunday services and special events, but no specific reference to a Welsh choir is made.
.... and yet they have referenced the Choir performing at the Church in newsletters! and yes another mistake, they have performed there over the years and practice there twice a week to this date., I know, I have heard them and seen them
This is not correct, the Choir has been practicing in the Li Hall (part of the Cathedral Complex) twice a week for decades and in the 1980's and 1990's I used to attend the practices on a regular basis just to listen to them sing (my brother in law, also Welsh was the son of a very famous businessman in Hong Kong)
The cathedral hosts regular musical performances, including Wednesday lunchtime concerts, which may feature visiting choirs, but there is no ongoing connection to a Welsh Male Voice Choir - again not true the Choir practices twice a week on Tuesday evenings and Saturday Mornings at the Li Hall and it is very well documented.!
Analysis:
The question may stem from a historical or one-off performance by a Welsh choir, possibly during a festival or tour, but no evidence suggests a permanent relationship. The cathedral’s active music program, including its own choir, aligns with Anglican traditions of choral worship, making it a likely venue for visiting choirs, but the Welsh connection appears unsubstantiated in current records.
This is one of those instances where knowledge of a long term resident carries more weight than AI and I never said they performed on a regular basis I said they practiced there twice a week and you could hear them from Garden Road, it was always very moving and yes, they have been referenced in the Church newsletters.
Connection to the Former French Mission Building
Legal or Other Connections:
Just thought I would check considering they are only a few meters from one another.
Given that the Former French Mission Building appears to be on land owned by St. Johns Cathedral (it is literally yards away from the Church) I had to ask the question and it was a French Mission for only a short period in the buildings long history, (35 years from 1917 to 1952) it seemed reasonable that as the Building has been owned by the Hong Kong Government since 1952 then there might be a connection
The Former French Mission Building is adjacent to St. John’s Cathedral, located on Battery Path. It was built in the mid-1800s, renovated in 1917, and used by the French Society of Foreign Missions. There is no documented legal or operational connection between the cathedral and the French Mission Building in the provided sources.
Both buildings are historical landmarks in Central, with the cathedral declared a monument in 1996 and the French Mission Building also recognized for its heritage value. Their proximity is geographical, reflecting Central’s role as a colonial administrative hub.
Analysis:
The lack of a legal connection suggests the buildings operate independently, despite their shared colonial history. The French Mission Building’s Catholic affiliation contrasts with the cathedral’s Anglican identity, reducing the likelihood of formal ties. Their proximity enhances the area’s historical character, making them complementary attractions for visitors exploring Hong Kong’s colonial past.
Community Regard
How is the Church Regarded?
St. John’s Cathedral is highly regarded in Hong Kong as a historical, cultural, and religious landmark. Key aspects of its reputation include:
Historical Significance: As the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building (built 1849) and the oldest Anglican church in the Far East, it is a symbol of Hong Kong’s colonial heritage.
Cultural Role: Declared a monument in 1996, it is a protected cultural heritage site and a tourist attraction, valued for its Gothic architecture and historical memorials.
Community Hub: The cathedral welcomes diverse groups, offering services in multiple languages (e.g., English, Cantonese, Mandarin) and hosting social enterprises like a cafe and bookshop. It is seen as a place of peace and reflection amidst Central’s skyscrapers.
Religious Importance: As the seat of the Anglican Diocese of Hong Kong Island, it serves 40,000 Anglicans and is a center for worship, meditation, and community outreach.
TripAdvisor Reviews: Visitors praise its serene atmosphere, majestic interiors, and historical features, noting its role as a quiet retreat and a venue for significant services.
Analysis:
The cathedral’s high regard stems from its ability to balance historical prestige with modern inclusivity. Its freehold status and colonial roots make it a unique symbol, while its community programs and open-door policy enhance its relevance in a diverse, fast-paced city. Its resilience through wars and political changes further cements its status as a beloved institution.
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Sir Edward Youde Memorial Plaque at St. Johns Cathedral | Hong Kong - 2025
Sir Edward Youde Memorial Plaque
Why is There a Memorial Plaque for Sir Edward Youde?
I always personally thought that Sir Edward Youde was one of our finest Governors, he was Welsh and I am part Welsh ( my surname is about as Welsh as it gets ) I met him a few times and he was a lovely man….
I had to laugh at this image, this young lady was fast asleep and basically running down the clock on here lunch hour in a very cool environment ( lots of giant fans! )
Sir Edward Youde was the Governor of Hong Kong from 1982 to 1986 and died in office on December 5, 1986, in Beijing. A memorial plaque in St. John’s Cathedral likely honors his contributions to Hong Kong, given his significant role as a colonial governor and his engagement with the Anglican community.
There is no direct evidence in the sources confirming Youde’s membership in St. John’s Cathedral, but as governor, he would have had a formal connection to the cathedral, which traditionally served colonial officials. The pews reserved for the Governor of Hong Kong, marked with the Royal Coat of Arms, suggest a historical link between the cathedral and colonial leadership.
Like myself Sir Edward Youde was Welsh, born in Wales and I imagine he would have visited the Church every now and then to listen to the Welsh Male Voice Choir practice and quite a few of the choir members where very important business leaders.....
The plaque reflects the cathedral’s practice of commemorating notable figures, similar to the tablet for William Thornton Bate. It serves as a tribute to Youde’s legacy, including his diplomatic efforts and governance during a pivotal period leading up to the 1997 handover.
Analysis:
The plaque underscores the cathedral’s role as a repository of colonial history, honoring figures like Youde who shaped Hong Kong’s trajectory. His death in office adds a layer of solemnity, making the plaque a fitting tribute. While not explicitly a church member, Youde’s attendance at services would have been customary for governors, reinforcing the cathedral’s connection to Hong Kong’s political elite.
Interesting Stories and Additional Facts
Interesting Stories:
Punkahs and Coolies: In the 19th century, the cathedral used punkahs (large swinging fans) operated by “coolies” pulling strings through holes in the walls to keep worshippers cool in Hong Kong’s subtropical climate. This practice, described in an 1852 account, highlights the colonial adaptation of Western architecture and the labor dynamics of the time.
Mysterious Woman in the 1960s/70s: In the late 1960s or early 1970s, a woman, possibly of South Asian descent, was frequently seen near the cathedral, leading to speculation that she lived there. Her identity remains unknown, adding a layer of local lore.
Buried Flags: During the Japanese occupation, regimental flags in St. Michael’s Chapel were buried to protect them from desecration, a dramatic act of resistance that preserved these symbols of colonial and military heritage.
HMS Tamar Myth: It was once believed that the cathedral’s main doors were made from timber salvaged from HMS Tamar, a British warship. A 2016 South China Morning Post article debunked this, but the myth persists in popular narratives.
Additional Facts:
The Cross Shape of St. John’s Cathedral
You mentioned realizing the cathedral is shaped like a cross when viewing it from a nearby hotel (The Murray). This cruciform (cross-shaped) layout is a deliberate architectural feature common in Gothic-style churches, symbolizing the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. St. John’s Cathedral was originally built in 1849 but was extended in 1873 to achieve its current cruciform shape, with the nave, transepts, and chancel forming a cross when viewed from above. This extension was part of the cathedral’s evolution from a parish church to a diocesan cathedral, reflecting both practical needs (more space for worshippers) and symbolic intent. The Early English and Decorated Gothic style, with lancet arches and geometric tracery, enhances this symbolic design.
There’s no specific “story” in the records about why the cross shape was chosen beyond its traditional Christian symbolism, but the 1873 extension was a pivotal moment in the cathedral’s history, aligning it with the architectural norms of major Anglican cathedrals. Your vantage point from the hotel likely offered a unique perspective, as the cathedral’s location amidst modern skyscrapers (e.g., Bank of China Tower, HSBC Building) makes its cruciform layout less obvious from ground level. If you share the hotel’s name or the specific angle of your photo, I can help contextualize the view further.
Architectural Features: The cathedral’s bell tower features a large “VR” (Victoria Regina) marking Queen Victoria’s reign and the coats-of-arms of governors John Francis Davis and George Bonham.
Stained-Glass Windows: Post-war replacements for the original William Morris windows depict scenes of Hong Kong life, such as a fisherwoman with a net, blending local culture with Christian iconography.
First Chinese Bishop: In 1981, Peter Kwong became the first Chinese Bishop of Hong Kong, marking a shift toward local leadership in the Anglican Church.
Modern Services: The cathedral offers meditation services on Mondays and lunchtime performances on Wednesdays, reflecting its role as a dynamic community space.
Land Value: The 53,147-square-foot plot’s estimated value of HK$3.99 billion underscores its economic significance, yet it remains dedicated to ecclesiastical purposes, a testament to its legal protection.
Lan Kwai Fong Memorial Marker
Concrete Plaque in the Grass Regarding the 1993 Lan Kwai Fong Incident
You asked about a concrete plaque in the grass commemorating an incident in Lan Kwai Fong in 1993 when people died. This likely refers to the Lan Kwai Fong tragedy on January 1, 1993, when a crowd crush during New Year’s celebrations resulted in 21 deaths and numerous injuries. The incident occurred in the popular nightlife district near St. John’s Cathedral, where thousands had gathered. The tragedy was attributed to overcrowding, slippery conditions, and inadequate crowd control.
While there’s no direct reference in the provided sources to a specific concrete plaque at St. John’s Cathedral commemorating this event, it’s plausible that such a memorial exists on the cathedral grounds, given its proximity to Lan Kwai Fong and its role as a community and remembrance space. The cathedral has a history of hosting memorials for significant events, as seen with the war memorials. A plaque in the grass could be a understated tribute to the victims, possibly placed by the cathedral or community groups to mark the tragedy’s location or impact.
For the record, the marker does exist and has done for a long time and I have the photographs to prove it.
Analysis:
These stories and facts highlight St. John’s Cathedral as a living archive of Hong Kong’s history, from colonial labor practices to wartime resilience and modern inclusivity. The debunked HMS Tamar myth illustrates how oral traditions can shape perceptions, while the buried flags and mysterious woman add human elements to the cathedral’s narrative. Its architectural and cultural features bridge past and present, making it a multifaceted landmark.
Conclusion
St. John’s Cathedral is more than a religious site; it is a historical and cultural cornerstone of Hong Kong. Its freehold status, colonial origins, and resilience through war and political change make it unique. From its Gothic architecture to its memorials and community programs, the cathedral embodies a blend of tradition and adaptation, serving as a place of worship, reflection, and heritage for over 175 years.
One final point and an important one.
The historical significance of St. John’s Cathedral in Hong Kong and the Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery
In a nutshell, AI is claiming that St. Johns Cathedral is the oldest Church in Hong Kong, I beg to differ, the Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery is 4 years older than St. Johns Cathedral, even though the Chapel no longer offers services, the Angligan Church arranges on a regular basis tours of the Chapel, it is well kept and makes for a great image and it is still a Church!
In fact the Chapel is the oldest surviving Western Colonial Building in Hong Kong, beating Flagstaff House by a year, more on that later
Your query raises an important point about the historical significance of St. John’s Cathedral and the Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery, particularly regarding which is the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong. Let’s analyze the claims, review the provided references, and clarify the situation based on available evidence.
Key Claims to Address
St. John’s Cathedral: Described as the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong (built 1849) and the oldest Anglican church in the Far East, symbolizing colonial heritage.
Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery: Completed in 1845, a Grade 1 historic building, potentially older than St. John’s Cathedral, but possibly overlooked as a declared monument due to administrative or promotional reasons. (it is NOT potentially older, it is and the Government recognises this)
Flagstaff House: Often cited by the Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO) and Hong Kong Tourism Board as the oldest surviving Western colonial building, completed in 1846.
Speculation: The Antiquities Board may ignore the chapel’s significance to avoid updating records that prioritize Flagstaff House for tourism or administrative convenience. (This is my speculation by the way)
Analysis of Sources
Hong Kong Cemetery Chapel (1845)
Hong Kong Cemetery Website (): States the Chapel of the Resurrection, built in 1845 by the Hong Kong Public Works Department, is the oldest Western building in Hong Kong, designed in the style of Victorian cemetery chapels in England. It was used for funeral services but is no longer active for burials, though it remains open to the public.
Gwulo (): Confirms the chapel was built in 1845, designed by the Surveyor General’s Office in Tudor Revival style, and is a Grade 1 historic building. It notes the chapel’s cruciform shape, Gothic architectural features, and its current disuse for services.
Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO): You mention the chapel is listed as a Grade 1 historic building but not a declared monument. The AMO’s website () confirms St. John’s Cathedral (1849) as the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building but does not mention the cemetery chapel in this context.
The AMO also cites Flagstaff House (1846) as the oldest surviving Western building ().Hong Kong Sheng Kung Hui (HKSKH) (): The HKSKH website does not specifically mention the cemetery chapel. It focuses on the Anglican Church’s broader activities and St. John’s Cathedral as the mother church of the Diocese of Hong Kong Island. (And yet there is a specific website link promoting the Chapel
This is the link to the Hong Kong Cemetery Website, I would suggest that this is an excellent source
https://www.hkcemetery.org/learngallery
St. John’s Cathedral (1849)
AMO (): St. John’s Cathedral’s foundation stone was laid in 1847, and construction was completed in 1849. It is explicitly described as the oldest surviving Western Christian ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong and a declared monument. Its role as the mother church of the Anglican Diocese underscores its prominence.
Hong Kong Tourism Board: Likely aligns with the AMO’s claim, emphasizing St. John’s as a key colonial heritage site, though not directly cited in the provided results.
Flagstaff House (1846)
AMO (): Flagstaff House is described as the oldest surviving Western building in Hong Kong, completed in 1846. This is a point of contention, as the cemetery chapel predates it by one year.
Tourism Context: You speculate that Flagstaff House’s prominence as a tea museum and its accessibility and the fact that it is a magnificent old building make it a more marketable “oldest” building, which may explain why the cemetery chapel is overlooked.
Administrative Oversight Speculation
You suggest the AMO avoids recognizing the cemetery chapel as a declared monument to avoid revising records that promote Flagstaff House. This is plausible, as updating official designations, websites, and tourism materials could be resource-intensive.
However, the AMO’s grading system (Grade 1 for buildings of outstanding merit, not necessarily declared monuments) may also reflect a prioritization of actively used or prominent structures like St. John’s Cathedral and Flagstaff House.
Clarification and Findings
Oldest Western Ecclesiastical Building:
The Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery, completed in 1845, predates St. John’s Cathedral (1849) by four years. It is a purpose-built chapel for funeral services, designed in the Tudor Revival style, and is a Grade 1 historic building (,). However, it no longer holds regular services, which may affect its recognition as an active ecclesiastical building.
St. John’s Cathedral, completed in 1849, is the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building still in active use as a church, serving as the mother church of the Anglican Diocese (). Its declared monument status and ongoing religious function likely contribute to its prominence in official records.
The claim that St. John’s is the “oldest Anglican church in the Far East” may hold if we define “church” as a building actively used for worship, excluding the cemetery chapel, which was purpose-built for funeral services.
Oldest Western Building:
The Hong Kong Cemetery Chapel (1845) is older than Flagstaff House (1846). The AMO’s claim that Flagstaff House is the oldest Western building () appears inaccurate based on the evidence from the cemetery’s chapel (,). The chapel’s Grade 1 status and historical documentation confirm its completion in 1845.
Why the Discrepancy?
Functionality: St. John’s Cathedral’s active role as a worship site and its central location make it a focal point for heritage narratives. The cemetery chapel, while historically significant, is less prominent due to its disuse for regular services.
Tourism and Accessibility: Flagstaff House’s role as a tea museum and its location in Hong Kong Park make it more accessible and appealing to tourists, supporting your speculation that it is prioritized for promotional reasons.
Administrative Inertia: The AMO’s failure to respond to your inquiries and the lack of declared monument status for the chapel suggest bureaucratic reluctance to revise established narratives, especially if it requires updating multiple records.
Conclusion
The Anglican Chapel in Hong Kong Cemetery, completed in 1845, is the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong, predating St. John’s Cathedral (1849) and Flagstaff House (1846). However, St. John’s Cathedral is likely prioritized as the “oldest Anglican church” due to its active religious function and declared monument status.
The AMO’s claim that Flagstaff House is the oldest Western building is incorrect based on the chapel’s earlier completion date. Your speculation about administrative and tourism-related motivations for overlooking the chapel is plausible, as its lower profile and disuse may reduce its priority in official heritage narratives.
Yep, all of that analysis, the Government has got it wrong and they should change the official records, it is not about whether the Chapel is active or not, it is a real building, you can arrange to visit it and yes it is in a cemetery, it is not an outhouse, it is quite a substantial building and deserves official recognition
click on the image to enlarge
Anglican Chapel | Hong Kong Cemetery | Hong Kong - 2025
As you can see from the image, this Chapel it is quite the building, fine it is not as big as St. Johns Cathedral which is predates by 4 years and is not as magnificent as Flagstaff House in Hong Kong Park which ir predates by a year and yes it is in an awkward location in a huge cemetery, but why should that matter?, the facts are the facts and millions of people over the decades are walking around having absorbed incorrect information.
So there you go
My insider tip
Please note that in general if you book a tour on Viator or Tripadvisor you generally have NO control over what guide will lead your Private Tour of Hong Kong and this is the most important component of the tour. I urge you to check the actual company website and book via their website and do not forget to read Tripadvisor reviews as well.
© Jamie Lloyd | J3 Consultants Hong Kong | J3 Private Tours Hong Kong |
| 2010 - 2025 All rights reserved. |
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